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[Cob] Coblist Digest, Vol 8, Issue 192Monica Proulx mon.pro at gmail.comSat Oct 16 15:44:46 CDT 2010
Hmmm, interesting topic and good point. You got me thinking, if this erosion works in any way similar to erosion on sloping soil surfaces (and stream bed erosion) once you get channeling going on the ground, some of the water instead of sheeting out over the surface, goes into the channel and this increaces the velocity and cutting action of the water. However, it would seem that on a vertical surface the water would still sheet out over quite a bit over the whole surface despite channeling (especially if rain is hitting it directly), as gravity isn't working quite the same as it is on mainly horizontal surfaces (even with water surface tensions taken into account). Upshot here is no matter how channeling starts and operates, once it starts you have more surface area to erode from and it may happen at a quicker rate. Anyway, fascinating topic, and I bet someone has studied the science of strictly vertical channeling somewhere, somebody in England probably related to cob. Come to think of it, channelling on vertical walls may be due more to the fact that the surface of your cob is more tightly packed than the interior because of the way people smack cob with their hands. Once water cuts through this layer in some places quickly, erosion can happen faster and this may cause channeling in the more loosely packed cob and it might also be able to take advantage of air pockets and straws and start wicking deeper into the cob. Given that scenario, seems like it's best if water sheets off rapidly from vertical cob walls, and I like Damon's idea of burnishing or compacting the surface of the cob, if you aren't going to plaster that is, to provide less "tooth" for water to erode with. Rain droplets are in and of themselves pretty good eroders, in addition to the sheeting water, and so size of sand grains might come into play (maybe bigger being better, up to a point of not return? Anybody have an idea on this? One can see why a good "hat" on cob is important where you get lots of rain, and maybe extra rain shelter the rainy side (fence) and do a nice burnish job, lots of folks could get away without plastering, particularly one story structures. Ok, nice diversion but now back to my plum jam making! > > > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 17:09:55 -0400 > From: Christopher Reinhart <sandymud at gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [Cob] no need for plaster > Cc: coblist at deatech.com > Message-ID: > <AANLkTin5fSc0q_WyVvbmbXMbm3JdgpJ5=shbB12m64gz at mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > The exterior of my two cob buildings have gone for five years with no > plaster - there is only very minor erosion on the windward side of one > building. It does seem that now that the erosion has started, and the water > has made small channels, that it is happening more rapidly, but I'm guessing > it's still less than 1/2" deep. I plan on adding plaster in the future, > mostly for aesthetic reasons. > > -Chris Reinhart > > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Coblist mailing list > Coblist at deatech.com > http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist > > > End of Coblist Digest, Vol 8, Issue 192 > *************************************** >
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