Rethink Your Life! Finance, health, lifestyle, environment, philosophy |
The Work of Art and The Art of Work Kiko Denzer on Art |
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[Cob] PaperCob!GlobalCirclenet webmaster at globalcircle.netThu Jul 6 12:48:37 CDT 2006
>Unless I've missed something here, I think this still-conceptual wall >system may be the easiest way to build an almost-all eco-earthen house for >extreme climates, that's round, warm, and fuzzy, and still doesn't require >any high-tech industrial equipment before, during, or after. The Peak Oil >Papercob Wall... can you find fault with it? I'm afraid it's a nobrainer. Most heat loss is through the ceiling, windows, and doors, obviously. Heat rises, and no amount of R-value in the walls alone will reduce total house heat loss enough to notice. This "almost-all eco-earthen house" apparently doesn't have a roof, windows, doors, appliances, utilities, foundation, or anything else. Because all those things require other materials not "so eco-earthen". You can live in a round, warm, and fuzzy wall with the sky above and dirt below. paul tradingpost at lobo.net http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/livingontheland Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes. --Henry David Thoreau *********** REPLY SEPARATOR *********** On 7/6/2006 at 1:12 PM davidsheen at davidsheen.com wrote: >[ diagram - http://www.davidsheen.com/shelter/papercob.htm ] > >Could this be it? A way to make houses as beautifully sculptural as only >cob houses can be... but to also make them effectively insulative? Some >have tried to incorporate straw bales into cob walls, especially on the >North side of the house in the Northern hemisphere. But because straw >bales are cuboid in shape, although they make for excellent rectilinear >building blocks, they can't curve well. If you try to bend them into >shape, you're left with lots of gaps that must be filled with loose straw, >which doesn't have nearly as high an R-value. > >Cob-bale sandwich walls have tended to consist of a medium-thick cob >internal wall for thermal mass, and a thin cob external wall for some >structural support and plaster cover. This model is an intelligent one, >let's work with it. Now, instead of first placing the bales, then cobbing >onto them, letting the bales determine the shape of the wall... what if we >first sculpted the walls with cob, internal and external, leaving a gap >between the two walls of about 12 inches... and then stuffed the >insulative layer inside after the fact? > >Straw-clay slip -- loose straw dipped in clay -- is one option, though an >inferior one. It is usually used in 2 x 4 inch thin wooden stud walls >where straw bales won't fit, and although it provides a modicum of >insulation, it's not nearly enough for our purposes, though certainly >possible in milder climates. But what about papercrete, hybrid adobe, or >paper adobe? Their insulation values are far higher, and they also lend >themselves to a cob sandwich building technique. In this case, the cob >walls replace the wooden forms usually required, conserving even more >resources. > >This use of paper building techniques is even easier for an owner-builder. > Instead of having to create vast amounts of the paper blocks all at once >using large industrial equipment, one could manufacture a relatively small >amount of the mixture at any one time, and use it only to fill the gap >created by that very day's worth of cob building. It also means that >instead of having to do the same tasks repeatedly ad infinitum, you could >vary your workload, giving your muscles an all-around workout and your >brain a bit of a break. > >Now, it's true that the paper blocks that a long time to dry. Well, cob >walls also take at least a whole season to dry fully. Cob walls >themselves will allow moisture to pass through, so the paper mix on the >inside can evaporate, albeit very slowly. The fact that the paper won't >dry too quickly means that when the next layer is added on top of the >first, the two layers can physically bond and integrate, creating a solid, >incredibly strong monolithic internal insulating wall. And of course, >they'll always be able to evaporate upwards, where they won't be shuttered >in. > >If there's a real concern that the internal paper mixture won't sure quick >enough, and that it'll never have a chance to fully solidify, a small >amount of cement can be added to stabilize the earth. In that way, it'll >mostly dry within a single day, quicker than the cob, yet still be >slightly viscous enough to bond with the next layer of cobcrete a day or >two layer, making sure the wall is internally consistent. As soon as I >mention the word cement, I know the cob purists are bound to freak out; >but hear me out here: > >First of all, this is not pure concrete, it's papercrete (or hybrid >adobe), which is still somewhat breatheable, it does allow moisture to >pass thorugh. And I know we have a knee-jerk negative reaction to cement >being used to plaster the outside of an earthen wall, as we should. But >this small amount of cement won't be on the outside, it'll be on the >inside of the wall; so both cob walls will still have ample opportunity to >shed whatever water they take on and remain structurally stable. > >Unless I've missed something here, I think this still-conceptual wall >system may be the easiest way to build an almost-all eco-earthen house for >extreme climates, that's round, warm, and fuzzy, and still doesn't require >any high-tech industrial equipment before, during, or after. The Peak Oil >Papercob Wall... can you find fault with it? If so, then let me know >before I break ground, so I can incorporate your ideas, because I'm >itchin' to put it into practice and see what comes of it. With love of >earth =) > >P.S. Thanks to Marlin Nissen for the Cob Scrap idea that sparked this >trajectory... >marlin_nissen at yahoo.com > > > >_______________________________________________ >Coblist mailing list >Coblist at deatech.com >http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist
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