Rethink Your Life! Finance, health, lifestyle, environment, philosophy |
The Work of Art and The Art of Work Kiko Denzer on Art |
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[Cob] foundation, concreteAmanda Peck ap615 at hotmail.comTue Jan 10 16:46:14 CST 2006
Gernot Minke is pretty interesting--some years back I spent a long evening once going through pages and pages of a search, finding odd things like winners (he was a judge) of a natural building competition in Argentina or somewhere, for instance. I truly don't know enough about earthquakes to tell you anything. A couple of years ago I mixed some sort of vaguely light clay stuff--wood shavings and clay, packed a couple of samples with it. Not tightly enough. There was a bit of shrinking. But I expect that even if I had used sawdust it would be rough enough to take plaster quite nicely. One of the samples--the one actually in a building isn't going anywhere--it's anchored with a couple of dozen screws every place they could be put into the frame. Next time I'm down at the barn I'll pick the other one up and shake it. Early Americans used to actually use rain water to wash in and with. But they set out spring water for drinking--it may indeed taste a little better. But the water you're washing in and with does come in contact with your skin and clothes and dishes. So, sort of, it's a better safe than sorry attitude on my part. And right here it's kind of a long ways to the springs. When I move up the hill it will be even farther. Some of the metal roofs--galvanized steel or galvalume, a few of the baked on enamels are certified for potable water. It's widely believed, although not known for sure, that all of the galvanized stuff is fine for a roof, maybe not for a cistern. I want a low-slope roof, though, for one buildng, and the metal roofs work better on the steeper slopes. One thing you can do on cob or other buildings where support might be ugly or a problem is to build the roof first, sitting on posts that will give you good overhang protection for your walls, and--easy for cob--build up to either the roof or a box-type plate that might be already installed. A few brave souls--with small buildings and lots of friends have even built the roof too high and then lowered it onto the finished wall. Gives you room to work out of the rain, places to put stuff. It may be one of those things that should be run by an engineer before you try it, especially with a good-sized house. I'm thinking that the building I'm planning that can be done this way can have the posts set close enough together so that the roof is supported enough that I could keep it a picnic shelter if I wanted. .................... Predrag wrote (snipped): Thanks again! I've tried to visit that URL, it seems the page doesn't exist more, but I found other pages about professor Gernot Minke and his books. I understand that nothing can help in a big earthquake, and I only would like to prevent the house from smaller ones and from smaller earth slipping (of course I should avoid choosing such places). In that case maybe grade beam is not necessary? Regarding wattle and daub I must admit that I haven't got a sense how earth and straw will stick to wattle (and plaster as well) and what will happen years after that? It seems to me cob will better accept plastering then wattle and daub or I am wrong? The idea about using roof to give potable water is also very interesting. I was informed only about obtaining non potable water.
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