Rethink Your Life! Finance, health, lifestyle, environment, philosophy |
The Work of Art and The Art of Work Kiko Denzer on Art |
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[Cob] foundation rock typeAmanda Peck ap615 at hotmail.comSun Jun 27 07:48:27 CDT 2004
Where my trailer is, one wouldn't even think about flat land. So I tend not to. But the flatter field up the hill may have a problem, besides it retains water (and breeds mosquitos) easily. And that may be the place for the house. I'm glad somebody reminded me of that. I thought that a rubble trench goes in a trench, works as a footing more than as a foundation. Partly, as far as I can tell, so that the urbanite, stone, whatever, foundation, above it can move as a unit. Or am I wrong here? But that sounds like I really may have to put in a standard poured or block foundation if/when I get a building where the trailer is. It's very steep, and I thought to berm in the back wall. And build on fill contained by a big gabion wire basket retaining wall for the front of it. Might be time for an engineer here. I mentioned a house near here that works pretty well year round with passive solar heating and minimal AC. What I don't like about the house is the extreme emphasis on no windows on north, west, I think there's one little one on the east. Their mud room--on the west--has a solid door, requires lights any time you want to go in or out that way--always if you are leaving for the day. The bathroom could easily be used as a darkroom, for any other purpose, lights are not optional. Kitchen, on the north, but open to the living/dining area is also a little dark, and both those areas tend to have some glare from the nearly solid window wall in the south. None of these things bother the owners, but they do have grid electricity. And the house has lasted for about 20 years, still in good shape, still loved by the owner/builders. But I'd think that most of us would do better with as much natural lighting as possible, especially if we might end up off-grid. I'm waiting for my earthern floor to dry enough to finish. For whatever reason, good or bad (availability of help had something to do with it), I did it in one 1 1/4 inch lot of clay on tamped grave. last inch or so was crusher runl. Might have been too much at one time, but we had a pretty dry mix. But it has been very wet and humid. And I don't want to finish enclosing the room until it is dry. What they call "crusher run" here sounds like what other places call road-base--unless they add clay to make it into roadbase. Pieces are sized from nothing up to an inch and a half--no big stuff. .................... Bill C. replies to Jilly (and me) snipped: The rubble trench foundation can be a good idea, *if you have a slope*. As Amanda mentioned in passing, you have to be able to run your drain (downhill, of course) to daylight. If you're level or nearly level you won't be able to do that. I have the same problem, and won't be doing RTF as a result - though it would otherwise make the most sense. Whatever foundation you use, you want to be sure that it's well stabilized and will move as a unit if it moves at all, or you'll get cracking in your walls. --- Depending upon where in Texas you are (I'm in Austin), standard road base can make a very nice earthen floor. ....Someone else on this list (I think) recently did an earthen floor too, so maybe they can give you their input. /// You actually want your long axis to run east-west. Your home will take the worst solar pounding on the east and west ends, not the south. (not counting the roof, of course, which really gets pounded, and therefore should be light colored or reflective if you can manage it. And well insulated.) _________________________________________________________________ Watch the online reality show Mixed Messages with a friend and enter to win a trip to NY http://www.msnmessenger-download.click-url.com/go/onm00200497ave/direct/01/
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