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Kiko Denzer on Art


Cob: Re: Problems with . . .(here are some modifications)

William Lewis wmlewis at thebestisp.com
Fri Jul 9 20:18:36 CDT 1999 

Well we have official permission to continue on-list with this thread. Thanks Wayne!
 
I fully intend to do the "humanure" composting as J.C. Jenkins touts in his book, but with some modifications to ensure a clean, healthy process. First, to briefly describe the process:
 
What Jenkins recommends is a two-bin system in which you pile a year's worth of compost material (humanure + weeds, grass, leaves, kitchen scraps, etc.) in one bin. You don't turn it. Just keep piling it on. When you dump your human waste bucket (material that has been layered with sawdust to prevent malodorous eminations and modify the pH/nitrogen level for better composting), you cover it with a layer of weeds, grass, etc. that you have ready for this purpose. This prevents flies and keeps in heat. Heat is the key! A relatively hot compost pile will render all pathogens dead in 24-48 hours, vs. months or years in or on the ground--or in a septic tank.
 
After year one, let the year-old compost rest while you start another one-year pile in an adjacent bin. 
 
After year two, the first pile will be fully composted and you can empty that bin's contents into your garden or where ever. Let the second pile rest and start another in the one you just emptied, and so on.
 
What I would do different would be to:
 
1) put some distance between the two bins, otherwise the "raw" pile will "contaminate" the old pile. Actually, Jenkins does present this as an alternative, but I think it should be THE method.
 
2) Any tool used in the "raw" pile should not be used in the new pile or anywhere else unless cleaned and dipped in a bleach solution. This might seem a bit too picky, but it will demonstrate to anyone that you are not sloppy, that you know what you are doing BECAUSE you know WHAT you are dealing with (i.e., possible pathogens).
 
3) His solution for wintertime is insufficient, I think. He says to simply go on adding to the pile and when spring comes it will start working and no problems. But if you have below-freezing temps for 4-5 months, that's a pretty good pile of doodoo thawing/freezing/rethawing out there come spring, exposed to rains and snowmelt which can wash sewage into the surrounding area. Maybe for cold regions a small strawbale shed (nothing fancy) with a pane of double glass on the southern exposure would be appropriate for the "raw" pile. You'd have to make up for rainwater, unless the cover and glass were removable for warm-weather use. 
 
4) On the matter of ground contamination and containment, I think Jenkins should address the possibility of someone placing the compost pile in a location where flooding might occur.
 
5) The "raw" pile should be fenced off. This keeps out persons who might just like turning compost and are not aware of the process. It keeps out kids who might play around it, pick up (possible) raw stuff on shoes to track around or barefeet to expose them to harm--and kids are always putting their hands to their faces and mouths. This also keeps wild and domestic (like your dog) animals out. It also further demonstrates that you take your responsibility seriously and you know what you are dealing with.
 
A precaution: Before you try launch into composting human waste, invest $19 in Jenkin's book. There are lots of important aspects to the technique that you should know, and Jenkins does a GREAT job of explaining the potential pathogens and their life cycles--essential knowledge if you are going to defend your system with more than simply, "Hey, it's natural!" 
 
Also lots of good compost-maintenance tips and pictures of several toilet seat and bucket setups (can be made as attractive as a reg. bathroom).
 
And make sure your kids stay awake in biology class!
 
Bill
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<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Well we have official permission to continue 
on-list with this thread. Thanks Wayne!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I fully intend to do the "humanure" composting as 
J.C. Jenkins touts in his book, but with some modifications </FONT><FONT 
size=2>to ensure a clean, healthy process. First, to briefly describe the 
process:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>What Jenkins recommends is a two-bin system in which you pile 
a year's worth of compost material (humanure + weeds, grass, leaves, kitchen 
scraps, etc.) in one bin. You don't turn it. Just keep piling it on. When you 
dump your human waste bucket (material that has been layered with sawdust to 
prevent malodorous eminations and modify the pH/nitrogen level for better 
composting), you cover it with a layer of weeds, grass, etc. that you have ready 
for this purpose. This prevents flies and keeps in heat. Heat is the key! A 
relatively hot compost pile will render all pathogens dead in 24-48 hours, vs. 
months or years in or on the ground--or in a septic tank.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>After year one, let the year-old compost rest while you start 
another one-year pile in an adjacent bin. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>After year two, the first pile will be fully composted and you 
can empty that bin's contents into your garden or where ever. Let the second 
pile rest and start another in the one you just emptied, and so on.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>What I would do different would be to:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>1) put some distance between the two bins, otherwise the 
"raw" pile will "contaminate" the old pile. Actually, 
Jenkins does present this as an alternative, but I think it should be THE 
method.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>2) Any tool used in the "raw" pile should not be 
used in the new pile or anywhere else unless cleaned and dipped in a bleach 
solution. This might seem a bit too picky, but it will demonstrate to anyone 
that you are not sloppy, that you know what you are doing BECAUSE you know WHAT 
you are dealing with (i.e., possible pathogens).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>3) His solution for wintertime is insufficient, I think. He 
says to simply go on adding to the pile and when spring comes it will start 
working and no problems. But if you have below-freezing temps for 4-5 months, 
that's a pretty good pile of doodoo thawing/freezing/rethawing out there come 
spring, exposed to rains and snowmelt which can wash sewage into the surrounding 
area. Maybe for cold regions a small strawbale shed (nothing fancy) with a pane 
of double glass on the southern exposure would be appropriate for the 
"raw" pile. You'd have to make up for rainwater, unless the cover and 
glass were removable for warm-weather use. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>4) On the matter of ground contamination and containment, I 
think Jenkins should address the possibility of someone placing the compost pile 
in a location where flooding might occur.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>5) The "raw" pile should be fenced off. This keeps 
out persons who might just like turning compost and are not aware of the 
process. It keeps out kids who might play around it, pick up (possible) raw 
stuff on shoes to track around or barefeet to expose them to harm--and kids are 
always putting their hands to their faces and mouths. This also keeps wild and 
domestic (like your dog) animals out. It also further demonstrates that you take 
your responsibility seriously and you know what you are dealing 
with.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>A precaution: Before you try launch into composting human 
waste, invest $19 in Jenkin's book. There are lots of important aspects to the 
technique that you should know, and Jenkins does a GREAT job of explaining the 
potential pathogens and their life cycles--essential knowledge if you are going 
to defend your system with more than simply, "Hey, it's natural!" 
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Also lots of good compost-maintenance tips and pictures of 
several toilet seat and bucket setups (can be made as attractive as a reg. 
bathroom).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>And make sure your kids stay awake in biology 
class!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Bill</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>