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Cob Earth berming cob buildings?Don Stephens dsteph at tincan.tincan.orgMon May 4 17:39:05 CDT 1998
On Mon, 4 May 1998, Jud Malone wrote: "I'm going to build a house into a south-sloping mountainside in WVA this summer, and I would like to know if it is possible to berm cob walls. Assuming that I would have good drainage away from the house, would the cob walls absorb too much moisture from the surrounding dirt? How about an earth-bermed rock wall faced on the inside with cob?" Don Stephens, Spokane WA USA replies: By way of background, I've been designing, building, writing about and teaching residential eco-earth- sheltering/underground construction since 1960, almost exclusively with moisture-sensitive natural materials. I'm still low on the learning curve with cob but have worked with bermed and, indeed, earth-covered strawbale walled (and roofed)homes for several years with success and straw in bales is certainly as vulnerable to wicking and other wetness issues as cob! Success with what you propose is definitely workable, given the right techniques, water barriers and a "friendly" site. First, the site - What is the general slope at and above the building zone? What kind of plant life does it support? have you done a test excavation to see what the soil stratigraphy (layering) looks like where you propose to put your back wall? Are there springs or freshets (post-winter temperary creeklets) above the site or wet layers in your excavation? Are there signs of slope instability - generally out-sloping trees or those who's butts slope out before turning vertical, errosion gullies, exposed break-aways, slides or sloughs - which would require addressment for any kind of excavation or construction? Assuming all the geo-signs above are promising, it should just be a matter of making sure that the capilarity with the soil below is well broken, that you have moisture barriers between the cob wall and the hill behind it, that you address lateral pressures exerted by the earth, that you provide positive drainage (preferably backed up by a sub-grade waterproof diversion sheet - 4 mil CROSSLAMINATED polysheet like Tu-Tuf by Sto-Cote or equal) and that you adiquately intercept downslope surface flow from above (with drainage swails, trench-type gravel diversion "dikes" and tiling.) One good way to deal with all of these but the up-hill response to down- slope surface flow is with what I call a vertical crawlspace, which has proven a multi-helpful element of a number of my residental projects. To do this (Gee it would be handy to be able to sketch on the email screen!) means to set the back (cob) wall of your home out several feet away from the stablized earth slope behind it and extend the roof overhang out over the intervening space to a footing on the undisturbed slope. Depending on soil type, there is a natural angle of downward load transfer from that outrigger footing; oftenen this is assumed at 45% unless the soil is extremely sandy or filled with organics. This back earth wall can be stabilized at the established angle with a series of back-sloping rock terrace walls which can also provide handy storage shelves within the resultant "vertical crawlspace" (some prefer to stucco the rock and soil for a more "sanitary" finished look. Besides the relatively tempurature-stabile storage area this provides, it offers a number of additional benefits - no lateral pressure on the back house wall, a place to run, modify and service plumbing, electrical, etc., a great place for a composting toilet, a heat plenium to incorporate in an annualized passive solar heating system (using the resultant dry soil as thermal storage/flywheel mass and a place for movable insulation on that wall of the house, to receive or resist heat transfer from that soil mass. I've gone on long enough on peripheral elements on a site to be restricted to cob, but if others are interested in these ideas related to earth- contacted cob and other moisture-sensitive materials and/or techniques of annualized/isolated-gain passive solar, I'd enjoy hearing from you on the side. Jud, I hope some of this is of interest and help in your project. I'll finish by responding to you request for help by quoting somebody's (?) caution to "beware of all advice, including this!"
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